A novella by Willy Andersson Grebst from Savage Life: South Pacific Tales (Åhlen & Åkerlunds Förlag, Gothenburg, 1908). Translation: Andrew Thelander 2012.
Nicholls Eastbourne was a trader like all the
other Englishmen resident in Tahiti. His shop was on the Avenue de la Grande
Armée, a street that, despite its distinguished name, was narrow and short.
Along the sides were small humble trading houses. Over their roofs were
stretched magnificent shades and crowns of vibrant red flowers. But Nicholls
Eastbourne did not run his shop like the other white men. His two sons-in-law
ran it instead. He himself only came down once or twice a week to check the
books or examine the copra piled up in a wooden container behind the shop. And
on these occasions, if everything was not found to be in order, Nicholls
Eastbourne was not a man easily dealt with. His anger grew like a rumbling
storm that culminated in a squall of abuse against which the sons-in-law didn’t
dare defend themselves; it happened not so seldom that he lost his temper and
boxed the ears of whoever happened to be around. And this always attracted the
keen interest of the many kanakas who gathered outside on the street to take
part in and enjoy the free spectacle. Despite his unrestrained violence and the
fact that he was the only one of the older resident merchants who from time to
time went on a steady two or three day drinking binge, Nicholls Eastbourne was
one of Papeete’s most respected and envied men. He was a clever and cool buyer
and, if the whispers were true, the interest he charged on loans that one and
all got from him was exorbitant though he never left anyone in difficult
circumstances if they sometimes fell behind in repayments. This was proof that
the man didn’t only have his head but also his heart in the right place.
Nicholls
Eastbourne had lived on the South Pacific islands for over fifty years and was
a man of the times. Originally a sailor, cabin boy on a full rigger, he left
his vessel during a loading in the Tonga islands. Then he roved around from group
to group during many years. He was a whaler and a pearl fisherman. He sailed
with trepang to China and hunted seals up at Sachalin. He was a sole trader on
lonely atolls, there where no other ships would turn up apart from his
company’s supply schooner and the missionary vessel John Williams – “damn the missionaries” he would always say when
talking about this – and so he had gone with Bully Hayes, the pirate. Had been
with him for three years and taken part in all his hair-raising exploits till
he finally tired of the rover’s life, followed a copra schooner to Tahiti, took
himself a kanaka wife and began his own trading business. But Lady Luck was not
kind to Nicholls Eastbourne. A cyclone smashed the palms on the shoreline along
Papaeno which he had acquired with his wife and he had difficulties with the
kanakas. Their gentle nature couldn’t really endure his violence. They gave him
the nickname “oleaga” which means “the evil one” or “the angry one” and didn’t
want to buy from his shop. In vain, he bought the best groceries – better than
any others found on the island. In vain, he thought about and costed special advertising.
Week after week went by, month after month and year after year without anyone
wanting to buy his tinned salmon and sardines, salted meat and biscuits, his
calico and knives, porcelain and glass and everything else that made up a well
stocked merchant shop. Now and then some kanaka from another place would offer
him a ton or two of copra but he could be certain that it was so over-watered
that he was doing a bad trade in place for a good one.
Over time the
family grew and he blamed his unlucky marriage for all the bad things that
occurred. Nicholls Eastbourne’s wife was a full-blooded kanaka as lazy and
listless as all the others of her race. The house began to become more and more
dilapidated. The children went around amongst the pigs and chooks without
supervision or education. His wife herself lay idle during the day on straw
mats on the verandah where she daily became fatter and fatter, lazier and
lazier, duller and duller. Nicholls Eastbourne, who was an orderly man, had in
the beginning tried to wake her energy with punches. He had taken her by the
hair and dragged her through the various chores. Had tried to drum her duties
into her with the kicks and slaps that were normal in nearly all the mixed race
marriages on the island. He swore his way through his rich supply of four
languages and bellowed and screamed until he was so hoarse that his throat
refused to work anymore. He showed her endless times what to do. Unfortunately
married people grow accustomed to each other as they are. However unlucky and
ill-matched a marriage is, it remains so in essence to the end; one feels
alien, unfortunate and alone if one separates and goes one’s own way. And this
more than anywhere else down in the South Pacific Islands where one is a long
way from white neighbours and there are no amusements apart from the companionship
of kanakas and the gin bottle. When Nicholls Eastbourne finally saw that his
wife would never become anything other than the good-natured, childish, lazy
and incorrigible kanaka that she was, he stopped trying to reform her, took
over running the household and supervising the children himself and became
satisfied with all the energy he could muster to bring order and method to one
and all. But from that day, his wife never really existed for him anymore. She
lay vegetating on the verandah like a fat clumsy animal without anyone taking
any notice of her. Finally the children forgot about her, that she was their biological
mother, and learned to see and treat her as a friendly and harmless old dog
that did nothing but lie still sleeping in a corner.
When six or
seven years had passed like this without Nicholls Eastbourne being able to
break the taboo the kanakas had put on him, he came to hear one day of a sailor
on one of Papeete’s biggest schooners having passed away and the shipping
company seeking a replacement. Without thinking, he set out in his little boat
and rowed round to Papeete. He went in to the company and declared himself an
applicant. He got the job, went on a right royal drinking binge knowing he
didn’t need to worry how he would look to the children and the next morning
sailed out with a burning hangover on a four month tour to the Marquess Islands
where he would exchange copra and pearls as trade to supply the company’s many
isolated stations with the new supplies they needed for business. When the four
months were over and Nicholls Eastbourne returned from his journey and cast
anchor in Papeete lagoon, he went straight into the company and asked if he
could buy the schooner, inventory and all; his bad luck was at an end. At first
they thought he was half joking. But
when the conditions and the price were agreed upon, to everyone’s amazement, he
produced a linen bag with heavy gold coins, old Spanish dollars dating from the
previous century the likes of which no white man in Tahiti now had ever seen.
He emptied out the coins onto the company’s table and lined them up in stacks
of twenty. When he had finished, 215 shining red gold stacks sat there and a
little pile of eight small coins to the side by itself. At that time, the
unexpected happened every day in that huge area of far flung islands and reefs
that together constitute the South Pacific Islands. Men who one day were as
poor as ship rats could the next day astonish their colleagues with riches
nobody could count. If one asked and pried about the source, there was seldom
an answer given. Just a shrug of the shoulders and some inaudible muttering.
Those who had any sense let the matter lie there. That Nicholls Eastbourne could
have left as a down-and-out returning with a bag of Spanish gold coins was the
most unbelievable thing one had heard of. Had he in his passage through the
almost unknown Paumoto Islands perhaps found some old Spanish wreck from the
Age of Exploration and did the gold coins come from there? Or was it some
buried pirate’s treasure he had chanced upon in the Marquess Islands where, it
is said, pirates hid out in days gone by? There was something mysterious about
the whole thing, something adventurous and peculiar. A mystery which none of
the curious Tahitians could solve and which Nicholls Eastbourne didn’t want to
help them solve. When the purchase was concluded and the schooner had taken in
new supplies of water and provisions, Nicholls Eastbourne rowed out to his home
on Papaeno. There he loaded his wife and children into the best boat they could
find on the east coast and paid an enormous price to a number of kanakas to row
the whole family to Papeete and set them on board the schooner. Thereupon he
set sail and pulled up anchor. The last words he screamed out to the white men
that stood in a little huddle on the beach to see him off was “I’ll be home
again in a year and a half. And if I don’t make it, me and mine will have gone
to Hell.”
Nicholls
Eastbourne had been away from Tahiti a little over a year without being heard
from when a brig from Australia arrived to load up with copra and started some
rumours that spread like wildfire through Papeete. A good friend of the brig’s
captain, it was said, had met Nicholls Eastbourne in Sydney’s finest hotel. He
had been dressed up like a real dandy and had been throwing money about like it
was going out of fashion. The wife and children were living in the hotel’s
grandest rooms and there was no end to the parcels, chests and boxes that were
sent in to them from all of Sydney’s posh boutiques where they had been out
shopping. They appeared to be incredibly rich and the talk was of millions. Not
poor Chilean or American dollars like in Tahiti but English pounds sterling,
heavy gold pounds sterling with Queen Victoria’s head on one side, more
respected and recognized than all the other coins in the whole wide world. Some
months after this news which everyone had speculated about and wondered over, there
came one morning, bruised and wet in the infinite, a particularly beautiful
schooner with slackened sails in lee gliding into Morea and drifting with the
tide. It was so shiningly fine and white and had such clean and beautiful sails
that it clearly wasn’t one of the usual English or American copra ships that
from time to time sailed into Tahiti to take on supplies on their long journey
down to Australia or up to California. One could see from the shore the glisten
and gleam of well-polished brass mountings and other frills. When it didn’t
come any nearer but stayed low drifting for a whole day without the lightest
breeze coming to fill its sails, the curious onlookers onshore sensed something
amiss and finally decided to man a boat and go out and offer to supply it or
escort it into the lagoon. When one of the largest whaleboats was quickly and
vigorously manned with tens of kanakas, Martin, one of the wealthiest French
traders in Papeete, and several other whites got into the stern. Martin himself
took the rudder and soon they were out past Moto Uto, the lovely little island
in the middle of the lagoon, and through the opening in the reef on both sides
of which the surf rose like a wall before it smashed itself into snow white
scum against the coral’s sharp edges. The kanakas rowed with powerful strokes
and sang in time with the rudder so that it became like a quest driven by
curiosity about the white schooner out there and what it was doing in these
waters spiced with high adventure and thrilling excitement. One can probably
understand this excitement when one considers that the white men at this time
were so isolated on their islands out in the South Seas not receiving messages
from the civilized world more than perhaps two or in the absolute best case
three times a year. When they got closer to the strange schooner, Martin peered
through his binoculars and proclaimed with an astonished shout that Nicholls
Eastbourne was on board. He stood on the windward side dressed in snow-white
clothes and with a broad rimmed straw hat. He looked to be the spiviest of
traders and even seemed ten years younger than before. He was brown-skinned
almost like a real kanaka and as strong and broad as a giant. Across his face
was a happy, peaceful and contented smile such as never had been seen before on
him. The reception they got on board was completely magnificent. Nicholls
Eastbourne nearly cried with emotion. He embraced them one after the other as
if they were all his dearest friends. He called his wife up on deck; she had
become fatter, lazier and clumsier than before; and both his daughters and
ordered them to make a great spread of the best they had on board to honour
their first friends from Tahiti. A fine celebration followed. No expense was
spared. French treats, expensive bon bons and English puddings. Beer, gin and
brandy as much as you could drink. Champagne in great quantity, by the dozen.
And the whole time Nicholls Eastbourne flitted about, impatient and excited,
and talked about how lucky he was to have made it back to Tahiti. Confound the
blasted wind, he said. If it didn’t blow up soon, he would hop in and swim or
fire off a signal rocket and let it drag them over to land. There had been no
difficulty getting to Tahiti but landing was another thing. By evening, The Golden Chip as the schooner was
named lay anchored in the same spot that Nicholls Eastbourne had started from a
year and a half earlier. Then the whole of Papeete came on board to see if it was
really true that it was Nicholls Eastbourne, the unlucky down-and-out who had
become rich and owned the most magnificent vessel that had ever harboured in
Papeete’s lagoon. Then of course the mystery was how could this be possible?
How had it happened? It was a mystery that Nicholls Eastbourne left completely
untouched and unanswered. So silent and secretive was he about everything that
had happened during the time between his departure and return that no one could
entice from him why he had given his vessel such a peculiar name as The Golden Chip, a name which … well,
who had ever heard such a name?
Several years had passed since that memorable
afternoon when Nicholls Eastbourne had anchored with The Golden Chip at Papeete. He had established his own business
since then and had a grand tradeshop on the Avenue de la Grande Armée.
Everything had gone well for him. He became one of the richest white men on
Tahiti but as he was hardworking by nature he did not give himself any rest and
pitched in whenever there was anything that needed doing. Although he continued
to be as savage as a wild animal if anyone crossed him and he was never short
on such occasions of angry words and sometimes even punches, he yet had nothing
but friends on the island. Nobody begrudged him his success and although they
couldn’t understand how he had come to be so rich so suddenly, they all
accepted that the whole thing was above board. On different occasions, one or
the other of them had tried to get him to explain the mysterious source of his
wealth but they never succeeded and once or twice Nicholls Eastbourne had
become extremely vexed and told them to “go to the devil and mind their own
business.” The Golden Chip, whose
uncommon name was also a source of persistent speculation, went on many
journeys over the years to different island groups. She left Papeete laden with
trade and returned with containers bursting with copra and mother of pearl. And
in a particularly small bag kept on board was a greater or lesser number of
pearls that was nearly always the first thing he took ashore and deposited with
his ship owner. Unfortunately, Nicholls Eastbourne had a real passion for
pearls. He had a huge collection of them of which he himself had written out a
meticulous description. There were pearls of the most varied forms and colours
from milk white to blue black. There were pearls that had grown quickly inside
the mussels and pearls that had become transformed and almost destroyed by all
the strange diseases that can afflict them. It was Nicholls Eastbourne’s life
ambition one day when his collection had become so complete that it gave a full
and complete picture of the pearl’s evolution and of all the forms and diseases
that exist, to travel home to England and deposit it with the British Museum
himself to his lasting memory and for all others interested in useful and
comprehensible study. And it was no small sum he laid down in his collection.
It is said that in order to come into possession of one of his most beautiful
treasures, a pear-shaped black pearl that would have been the envy of any crown
jewels, one would have to make the journey to the far flung Marquess Islands
twice and still have the luck to obtain the object of your desire by bartering
a fully laden whaleboat and a whole cargo of trade goods which at that time was
an extraordinary price even for the largest and most fault-free pearl.
But it wasn’t just in economic respects that Lady Luck
set her gentlest smile upon Nicholls Eastbourne. Even in his family life had a
great transformation taken place since the time when the family lived in a
ramshackle hovel in Papaeno and he had the need to kick his wife to and from
the different domestic duties. He had built himself a grand house on a
beautiful farm on the beachfront west of Papeete where the outlook was
unhindered over the ocean and in the distance to the blue wild crags of Morea.
Here his wife dreamed away the days on a wide verandah that surrounded the
house. She lay spread out in an armchair without the need to so much as lift a
finger or move a foot. She left the care of the house and her daughters to a
skinny little Bible-toting English miss who was distantly related to Eastbourne
and who had turned up one beautiful day from no one knew where. Under her
strict tutelage, the two daughters had grown up to become the most fine-looking
and beautiful to behold of the mixed race girls on the island. They were quick
to learn and happy in their nature and when Nicholls Eastbourne came home in
the evenings and heard their and their girlfriends’ happy and healthy voices
that put life into the house and the large farm, his thoughts often went back
to the hard times when they had crawled around with the pigs and chickens in
Papaeno and when life had nothing other than misery and worry to offer. Then
his breast would heave and he would breathe a sigh of relief and contentment
over his past life. There was a huge difference between being poor and rich!
Even if one never went as far as starving to death down in the South Pacific
Islands because nature, even in the worst case, would provide everything one
needed to sustain life! It is still lovely and wonderful to get for oneself in
addition everything people find nice and pleasing to make one’s circumstances
as agreeable as possible.
When the oldest of the girls was around seventeen, she
found herself a suitor. He was an Englishman like Eastbourne and what one calls
a “remittance man” or “lotus eater.” That is to say a man who for one reason or
another had to leave or was sent away from his homeland and then lived on
regular remittances which his consul received from home for his benefit. Many
such men live in the South Pacific Islands. For the most part they are
Englishmen from good families who through short marriages with natives or mixed
race girls finally become so acclimatized that they will only return to their
homeland in exceptional circumstances. Molineux, as the young suitor was
called, was said to be of very noble descent. It was whispered – and this
rumour was traced back to the embassy – that he was the younger son of a
renowned lord and politician and that the reason for his dispatch to the South
Pacific was the father’s displeasure over his son’s refusal to join the English
marines. However that was, Molineux was an uncommonly decent young man. He
neither drank nor swore. He lived alone without womenfolk in a little house and
– according to what the rumour also said – didn’t behave like the other
remittance men who regularly gathered around the English consul for their money.
He played the mandolin and had a beautiful baritone voice. He was blond with
blue eyes and had a figure like a young Apollo. Because of this and for many
other reasons, he was considered the most eligible bachelor in the whole
eastern part of the South Pacific. It was with young Molineux’s conduct as a
suitor to one of Nicholls Eastbourne’s daughters that the story of how he
became rich first came out. It was to Molineux that Nicholls Eastbourne first
told the story. Without him, who in his turn told the story to me, the story
would never have been written down and no one else would have got to hear how
one of the easiest and most successful deceptions that I ever heard of took
place.
It wasn’t long after that that young Molineux – the
remittance man - the first suitor to appear for one of Nicholls Eastbourne’s
daughters, had captured the whole family’s love and good will. Nicholls
Eastbourne himself who was a self-made man without any training and without any
other skills than pure practicality was highly impressed by the young man’s
extensive knowledge of subjects that were so strange to him that he not once
recognized the names being spoken of. And the daughters – unlike their mother
who took nothing in where she lay lazing in her armchair – were completely
captivated. He could have had both of them if he wanted. But Molineux was an
honourable man. And polygamy was not officially permitted in Tahiti. Some
nights before the wedding was due to take place, the two men – Nicholls
Eastbourne and Molineux – had an intimate chat. They sat on the verandah that
looked out over the ocean and where the light breeze blew unhindered. Their
conversation moved from destiny and adventure to getting to know each other’s
life stories. There were many wild tales told one after the other. Stories
about bloody deeds and dirty tricks, about hunger, sickness, shipwreck and
death. But first and last about love. Even if in primitive form, love still
played the greatest role in nearly everything which at that time happened on
those emerald green and romantic South Pacific Islands.
It was however mainly Nicholls Eastbourne who spoke
during which young Molineux sat enchanted listening. He thought that it was one
of his boyhood years’ wild adventure novels he was listening to with the hero
now sitting in the flesh right before him and delivering one unbelievable
chapter after another. Suddenly, Nicholls Eastbourne began to talk about
himself. This was completely out of character for him. But the evening’s
intimacy, his sympathy for the young man who would soon become his son-in-law
and the grog he had been constantly downing brought him to it. A longing to at
least once be open and forthright filled his heart. Right as this was, he lit a
new cigar and slowly and with strong emphasis asked the question: “Look here,
my boy, would you like to hear the story about how Nicholls Eastbourne became
rich?” Then, without even waiting for an answer, he began to speak.
My first six or seven years here in Tahiti were what
we white men usually call swine or hellish years. Nearly everyone who comes
here without means has got to prove himself. They are unfamiliar with
everything. The natives, the climate, the conditions. First and foremost, they
are unfamiliar with the loneliness. That is their worst enemy and it drives
them either into the arms of the kanaka girls or the gin bottle. Sometimes
both. And there it often ends. There is nothing more dissipating, energy
sapping and tempting than kanaka girls and gin.
But that was not what my swine years in lonely Papaeno
were about and I want to tell you about the strict taboo the natives placed on
me and my wretched marriage. All that lies so far behind me now that sometimes
I think it was just a bad dream. It was how I became rich that I intended to
talk about. Yes, the story is simple enough although romantic. Listen up then.
You maybe know that in my seventh year here through
lucky circumstances I became captain of one of Papeete’s biggest schooners and
was sent out on a four month trip to the Marquess Islands where I would load up
copra and mother of pearl on Hiwaoa, the largest island in the group. Yes,
well, there I happened to meet a chief, an old man who had lived a long life
and had heard of and witnessed many curious things. He sold his copra to us and
himself came on board. I was curious about his strange tattoos the likes of
which I had never seen before. So it was that the old cannibal and I became the
best of friends. I spoke fluent Polynesian and this strengthened the bonds of
mutual respect that grew stronger and stronger between us the longer our
acquaintance continued. Finally I went as his guest on a visit to his village
on the other side of the island. A great feast was held at which the chief
officially adopted me which is the greatest honour, then and now, that can be
bestowed upon a stranger in the Marquess Islands. On the day after the feast,
the old chief came to me where I lay stretched out in the church hall. He was
extremely secretive and had come, he said, to tell me about a great treasure
that lay hidden on a neighbouring island called Ruahunga. A treasure of pure
gold like the English pound although of a different size and marking. A
treasure buried deep within the guava thickets in the island’s centre.
Impenetrable thickets deep into which the natives never ventured because
spirits and other supernatural forces lived there. He himself had heard the
story of the treasure from a shipwrecked sailor he had captured among the
natives during a war raid he had led to the island. This sailor had been
slaughtered and eaten after they kept him for a few months on Hiwaoa. It
wouldn’t be too difficult for me to find the gold, he thought. It would lie
forgotten in amongst the air roots of a particularly old banyan tree whose
crown one could see towering high over the guava thickets and coconut palms if
one steered into and anchored in a certain bay on the island’s eastern side. A
bay that was easy to find again marked by two high flat rocks that rose right
up out of the lagoon inside the reef and which, when seen from the ocean,
looked like great canoes under sail.
This tale about a mysterious golden treasure there for
the taking only two day’s journey from where I was I didn’t have to hear twice.
I took the old chief and a half a dozen of his best men with me. I sent my own
men ashore and then sailed off. Unfortunately, I knew I couldn’t trust my own
men. They were Tahiti and Raratonga kanakas. They would just betray me as soon
as we got back to Papeete. In which case the company owner would demand a share
of the gold and I had not the least wish to give him any. So, as I said, we
sailed away from Hiwaoa on our own. After two particularly favourable sailing
days, early in the morning, we sighted Ruahanga which showed itself to be an
exquisite and most luxuriantly forested island. We sailed slowly down the east
coast until we found the aforesaid bay. Two high flat rocks stood there exactly
like the old chief had said, right up out of the lagoon and from a distance and
looking just with the naked eye, one could easily take them for mighty canoes
under sail.
We manouevred carefully in through the reef so that
the currents wouldn’t jam us aground and cast anchor only a short distance from
the shore. It was the most beautiful little bay you could ever imagine. So
peaceful and quiet. You heard nothing apart from the distant surf’s monotonous
song and the call of some solitary bird. As for humans, there was no trace of
them. Ruahanga’s natives lived on the island’s western side where the rainfall
was less but more regular and where the palms grew more and bigger nuts. The
forest which contained a tight tangle of guavas with the odd palm here and
there spread right down to the narrow white sand beach which was like a fine
snow white lining around the lagoon. A few hundred metres into the jungle one
could clearly see an unusually tall old banyan that shot up and spread its
crown higher than even the tallest palms. We launched the boat and rowed
ashore. But none of the kanakas wanted to get out and come with me up into the
forest. As I said before, they believed spirits lived there. They were
impossibly superstitious on the island and sometimes saw apparitions even in
daylight. According to some old tradition that they all still believed in, the
ghost of anyone who was slaughtered and eaten on Hiwaoa would haunt Ruahanga’s
forests and thickets. Even the old chief who was otherwise a courageous man who
didn’t recoil from anything, made an excuse. He said he had a sore foot and
couldn’t leave the boat because of it. He was polite and apologetic. Perhaps it
wouldn’t have been very pleasant for him to meet in the jungle some old friends
and acquaintances he had once killed and eaten back on his own island!
Anyway I decided to go alone. I took a small compass
with me so as not to lose direction. The forest and jungle there, like here on
Tahiti, was so unbelievably thick that one had to clear a path through inside
and then one couldn’t see a foot in any direction. I had an axe with me
otherwise I would have needed to snap and bend branches. And a knife without
which one couldn’t take a step forward through a tangle such as this that lay
before me.
In the beginning it all went well. The ground was soft
to walk on covered with the finest greenery that with each step coiled itself
up and seemingly withered away under my feet. But then it became worse and
worse. Slippery and uneven. And very dark. The guavas were a single confusing
tangle. My knife slashed to the left and the right and I was sticky with sweat and
all the moisture that was dropping down onto me from every quarter. At the same
time it became harder and harder to move forward as I became gripped by an
indescribable anxiety the likes of which I had never experienced before. I
began to imagine that the whole episode was a dubious misadventure. I found
myself alone on a strange island hunting for an old treasure about which nobody
knew a thing except my adoptive father, the old chief, and it maybe wasn’t
worth the effort. I also began to suspect that he had lured me here so that he
had time to disappear with my vessel. What would become of me in that case? How
would I ever get back home to Tahiti again?
I stopped for a moment to think. Should I turn back or
continue? Was there really a treasure buried under the banyan tree? Or was the
whole thing a mystification? If the treasure really was there, how had it come
to be there? How big was it and who was the true owner?
But I hesitated no more. The memory of those seven
swine years in Tahiti sprang to mind and forced me onwards. I heard whispering:
it could be true, it could be true. You must not cast aside the one chance you
have to save yourself from more years of hardship. Think about your useless
wretch of a wife and your children who wallow with the pigs. Do you want things
to continue like that? Go on! It could be true. It could be true.
It was a difficult moment. But the banyan tree
couldn’t be far away now on my estimate. If the old chief was wanting to
deceive me, he was probably now long gone. Go on! Hurry! Go on! The last few
steps through the thicket were the worst. It was wet and incredibly stifling. I
thought I could hear a strange noise all around me. It creaked and whispered.
It was like footsteps all around and whispering voices. Could it be the ghosts
of the men eaten on Hiwaoa haunting the place and wanting to curse anyone
disturbing the peace of their dark resting place? Or was it just the rustling
of the wind and the beating of some forest birds’ wings that I heard? Whatever
it was, it was unworldly and terrified me.
Just then I was standing in front of the banyan tree. It
was a massive giant with at least a half a thousand tangled slender air roots and
between them were snared countless lianas and other vines. I climbed into the
tangle and fumbled about in all directions. But I saw nothing but new roots and
lianas going on forever. Forever!
When I had worked my way around half the tree – and
that was no small feat, let me assure you – I came across something other than
air roots and lianas. It was a large ironwork chest of peculiar shape and
completely covered over with tightly matted greenery. I threw myself onto it
like a wild animal. It has to be the treasure, I thought. My swine years and
life being treated like a dog are over. Now Nicholls Eastbourne is as good as
anyone else. My old Hiwaoa father wasn’t deceiving me after all. Here’s the
treasure. Here it is!
It was a tough job for one man to tear away the jungle
and break open the chest. The ironwork was red and rusted. But it held together
still as if it were the arms of a giant. It bowed and creaked but wouldn’t give
way, wouldn’t release its grip. I was strong at the time. As strong as a sailor
needed to be. And I held back none of my power. Inside lay fortune and the
future. Everything a poor devil could wish for. It was worth an aching back and
numb arms to crack and bend with all one’s might.
Finally I broke the chest open. On the top were some
thick books printed in a language I didn’t understand – probably Spanish. I
threw them out the side and did the same to some mouldy old coats and vests of
coloured broadcloth that lay under the books. Then I saw two sacks or bags.
They were made of tough material. When I opened them with a hasty slash, I was
mesmerized. There was the treasure. They were full of heavy glistening round
gold coins the likes of which I had never seen before and haven’t seen since.
Gold coins which I hastily counted up to at least ten thousand pounds’ worth.
I had to carry the gold down to the bay over four
trips. The old chief who hadn’t deserted me but was waiting faithfully, took it
on board bit by bit and when there was nothing left in the chest under the
banyan, we pulled up anchor and sailed back to Hiwaoa. As he had no use for gold
coins, the chief accepted a promise of two fully fitted whaleboats that would
be sent to him on the next ship from Papeete. And his people would get
biscuits, salted meat and gin for a kai-kai that would reach them in a week.
How I then came back to Papeete and bought the
schooner, cargo and all, you have heard before. I myself have never forgotten
the day and the faces all around when Nicholls Eastbourne, down-and-out and
unlucky cove, emptied out his little sack of gold coins on the table.
But this was only the first chapter in the adventure
novel of how I became rich. The next chapter played out in Australia and then
finally way up at the Gilbert Islands if you have the appetite to hear more …
Before Nicholls
Eastbourne continued his story, he sat quietly for a moment and stared out
before him over the beach in the direction where the surf broke across the
coral reef and glistened through the darkness like a single long green
phosphorescent stripe. His thoughts once more flew back to the swine year days
as he called them on Tahiti, wandering about the primeval forests of Ruahunga,
the treasure found under the giant banyan tree and to the old chief on Hiwaoa
who adopted him. He relived the triumphant moment on his homecoming to Papeete
when he had bought his first schooner and enjoyed seeing the bystanders’ amazed
expressions as he placed his gold coins on the table.
After that, he
recalled that he promised his future son-in-law a continuation of the story of
how he became rich. He lit a new cigar, took a deep swig from his whisky glass
which the young Molineux had just filled up, leaned back comfortably in his
deck chair and began.
I had barely got
my wife and children aboard the schooner when we pulled up anchor, hoisted the
sails and set course for Sydney. And when wild Tahiti gradually began to blink
away in the distance, I thought I had seen it for the last time. I intended
never to return. I would buy myself a large ship in Sydney, become a shipowner
and finish my days in peace and quiet somewhere on the Australian continent. I
had it in mind to become very rich. My Ruahunga gold coins would be the
foundation. And I had heard that it wasn’t difficult to become fabulously rich
in Australia at that time if one only had something to start off with.
The journey was
over all too quickly. On the morning of the fifty-second day from when we lost
sight of Tahiti, we sailed through Sydney Heads. In the afternoon, we anchored
outside Kirribilli. The first thing I did when I landed was go up to a bank and
exchange my gold coins for English tender. I got 7,456 pounds sterling for
them. Of that, I took 4,000 cash which I intended to keep on board and always
keep watch over and the rest I deposited in an account. Then I went out into
the city and did in the evening what all the other sailors did regardless of
their nationality or homeport: I had a solid drinking session. I don’t remember
exactly who I was with during this bout and I don’t really remember what
happened. But I recall today like in a dream a big well-lit room before me and
a blond lady at a piano. I think I can hear the clinking of bottles and glasses
on a nearby table and the sound of cards. Then I have a muddled sense of two
large swarthy men, a quarrel and a hard punch between the eyes. That’s all I
can remember of what happened to me that night, my first, in Sydney. About the
day after, I am completely certain that I awoke in the morning in a thicket in one
of the city’s outer areas and I had a dreadful hangover. I was sore and my
whole face and knuckles were swollen as if I had been in a furious fight. My
clothes were partly ripped from my body. When I finally got my thoughts
together sufficiently and with a terrible groan sat myself up, I found that my
watch and my 4,000 pounds were putz weg
– gone – completely disappeared without so much as a farthing left to tell
where the rest had gone. For the next three weeks, I did nothing else but try
and find the blond woman, the two big swarthy men and the room with the piano
that I could recall from my drinking bout. I hired a detective, a clever man
who knew every little seedy nook and cranny in the whole town. We walked from
quarter to quarter. From sailors’ pub to sailors’ pub. From music hall to music
hall. We dressed in disguise and visited all the opium dens and all the thief
and scoundrel hideouts the police knew of in the city. We acquainted ourselves
with all manner of odd types and searched, wheedled and spied day and night.
But nobody knew anything about a blond woman, a room with a piano and two men
that fit the fuzzy description that my blurred memory could provide. Finally,
with an aching heart, I had to give up the hope of ever again seeing any of my
4,000 pounds. That 4,000 pound loss daily became harder and harder to bear.
During these
weeks, I didn’t have much time for my family. I had lodged them in a boarding
house at Mosman’s Bay for what was only meant to be in colourful language “a
flying visit.” When my fruitless investigations were finished, I took my little
briefcase from the hotel down near the harbour where I had my lodgings and
moved in with my family. When I for the first time went down to lunch with them
in the common dining hall, who did I see right opposite me at the table but the
woman I recalled from my dream and had been hunting for several weeks. The
woman with the blond hair; the woman in the room with the piano; the woman who
had to know what happened to my 4,000 pounds. I immediately saw that she had
recognised me. Her face went as white as a sheet and she looked like she was
about to take off from the table as if she meant to fly. But then she took
control of herself and sat down. She kept her eyes down and busied herself with
her chicken broth which she took ages to eat with only her hands’ nervous
trembling to show that inside she was anxious and afraid. During this time I
sat stuck to my chair and stared at her. I was torn between whether to eat or
talk. I was not at all certain how to handle the situation. Should I expose her
now or wait till later and try to get her amicably to return my money? But one
thing was certain. I would not let her out of my sight for a second. Not a
second. I was afraid she would on the count of three sink down into the earth
or vanish right under my nose where she sat on the other side of the table.
My wife didn’t
notice my agitation. Her listlessness was on display. Mealtimes were almost a
punishment for her because she had to move herself going to and fro and lifting
spoon, knife and fork up to her mouth. In between she took a rest with
half-shut eyes and without noticing anything happening or being said around
her. When I sat there at the table that day, I saw more than ever before what a
poor match a marriage between a white man and a full kanaka woman truly is. I
had been riled many times before by my wife’s idleness but this was special. In
the South Pacific Islands, the climate is so draining that one doesn’t get to
do any deep thinking. But here in Sydney the air was fresher and more healthy.
And here, so to say, I snapped out of the lethargy in which I had been existing
for the last six or seven years. I thought that the woman, my wife, was an
animal. A big, clumsy, repulsive animal whose life didn’t have the least
substance or value. Not even our children had any significance to her. She
lived only to doze and dream the whole time lying in her lounge chair. Struth!
The woman opposite was quite the opposite. She was a criminal, that was perfectly
clear. She was in any case an active, thinking person. She lived and worked
even if her work was of the most dubious sort. She had a goal – presumably to
get rich quickly – and she strove with all her abilities towards it. She
developed herself for her area of work. That is my point: the kanaka women
don’t do this. They don’t improve themselves. They stand still, tread water.
Life without work is best for them. The breadfruit trees hang heavy with fruit,
bananas ripen year round, pineapples grow continuously, the mangoes never
finish, the lagoons are full of delicious fish and the men supply the pantry
and kitchen. Life for them is eating and sleeping, sleeping and eating, and
maybe while they’re young getting to enjoy a certain amount of loving. This plus
some dancing and singing is all they need to be perfectly content. It is such a
pity, such a pity! When mealtime was over, everyone stood up from the table one
by one and left. Finally, everyone had left except we two, the blond woman and
I. We sat opposite each other without a word and without her risking lifting
her eyes and making eye contact. When we had sat like this for five minutes,
ten minutes, a quarter of an hour, an infinity, it was I who broke the silence
with a simple question going right to the heart of the matter. “Do you intend
to kindly return my four thousand pounds?”
She stood up
without answering. Her lips trembled as if she wanted to say something but
couldn’t. So she signalled for me to follow her. Together we went out through
the hall and up the stairs to the units. There we stood in front of one of the
rooms that looked out over Mosman’s Bay while she took out her key from a small
handbag that she had over her arm and opened up. When we went in, I looked
around wondering. This wasn’t the room with the piano. It was a bedroom and, at
the same time, a museum. Curiosities from all over the South Pacific hung on the
walls. War clubs from Fiji and dance masks from New Britain. Shields and arrows
from the Palau Islands and red washed gods from the Solomons. Shell garlands
from the Carolines and gold glittering straw mats from Samoa and the Gilbert
Islands and in the middle of the wall shone a royal cloak from the Sandwich
Islands. A wonderful rare cloak made up of thousands of small glittering bird
of paradise feathers that are valued by the islanders like gold. The woman saw
my awestruck gaze. She understood what I was thinking and hesitated before
explaining. “It didn’t happen here,” she said. “It was down in Sydney. Nobody
here knows anything. Nobody, understand! That’s why you’ll get your money back
unlike so many of them that stray into my quarter. But first you must promise
not to dob me in, not to say a word to a living soul. You must swear an oath on
this Bible.”
I couldn’t help
but laugh. There was the woman who had robbed me standing before me wanting to
dictate terms. I should swear not to dob her in. And she maybe had no more than
a few hundred pounds left. It was so naïve. It was me who was in the position
to be able to dictate terms. Not her.
She seemed to
again have guessed my thoughts. “I have 2,650 pounds left of your money,” she
said. “The other 1,350 pounds were my accomplices’ cut. They’ve gone away for a
long time now. They bought a passage to London and left the day after … after …
yes, you know.”
Now I am good-natured
by temperament. I believed the woman was telling the truth. Alarm and angst
were so obviously stamped on her face that a comedy was impossible. She would
give up what money she had to save her own skin. For my part, I would rather
have 2,650 pounds than nothing. So I swore an oath as she wanted, got my money
which she had stored in an empty spear from Bougainville, went in to Sydney and
quickly deposited it in the bank with the 3,456 pounds already there. Over the
next few weeks, I ran into the blond woman almost daily. I can’t deny that she
interested me. She lived a real double life. The adventuress of Sydney! She
lived so unobtrusively and as quiet as a fish when she was over in Mosmans’.
She had been married to a Norwegian. A skipper who had sailed back and forth
over the entire South Pacific for six years. From this travel she had gathered
together her many curiosities and got to know the people. Her stories of what
she got up to bordered on the unbelievable. There was no danger – fire, water
or steel – that she wasn’t exposed to. But the oddest in my view is the story
of how her husband had swindled the natives of Palau with a chest of
gold-coloured tokens. He had tricked the god-fearing simple folk into believing
they were pounds sterling. With this he got to buy a whole cargo of copra that
he sold in China for a mighty profit. I couldn’t hear enough of that story. She
got to tell it time and time again. With all the details. Even the most insignificant.
When I committed to memory how the skipper could use his navigation skills, I
gradually came to a decision to myself buy a big cargo and do the same. It
would be a magnificent adventure and bring a greedy profit. And what a “son of
a gun Norwegian skipper” could do couldn’t be so hard for such a clever chap as
Nicholls Eastbourne.
Dry and thirsty after his long narration,
Nicholls Eastbourne took a few good swigs of whisky soda before continuing his
interesting tale. He then nodded encouragingly to Molineux to light a new cigar
as protection against mosquitoes and the countless other small winged
tormentors that swarmed around the light after which he began to talk.
Although I did
not neglect for a single day to go down to the harbour to look at the yachtsmen
who constantly came and went there from and to nearly all the harbours in the
world, it took around a month for me to finally set eyes upon the vessel I
thought would be just right for my purposes. It was around 600 tons and had
just landed at Sydney with rice from China. It was an uncommonly beautiful ship
to look at, fine and slender like a yacht, and I stood gazing at it for half a
day as it set anchor in Sydney Cove before I went on board to speak with the
skipper and ask if it was for sale. When I went on board, I was completely
astonished. I had never seen a cargo ship that was so polished with quality
mahogany and shiny brass. There was a feeling of orderliness on board just like
on a warship and everything was new, strong and made of the best material. You
could tell with just a short glance about. The skipper, an old weather-beaten
and obstinate Swede, had no objections to selling the vessel. He had been at
sea for forty years and now wanted to settle down on shore somewhere. We chatted
and haggled for a couple of hours emptying more than a few bottles of ale down
in the quay, came up with a price and settled the deal. When the cargo was
unloaded, the skipper would go ashore and the ship was all mine. The world lit
up with all its rich possibilities right in front of me.
In between time,
there was a lot I had to do before the cargo was unloaded and I could go on
board. I had to get supplies for at least a year. And I needed tokens. Tokens
that would become the trump card for my journey. They were difficult to get in
Sydney at that time because all the factories imported them from England. But
after a great deal of difficulty and searching, I found a handy old German who
with a little bit of persuasion agreed to take the matter in hand and
manufacture the required tokens.
A glorious day
in May, the ship was unloaded and ready. I had christened it “The Golden Chip”
and the name aroused no suspicion at all in Sydney as you can imagine. When we
gently glided out to sea through Port Jackson, nobody had any idea that I had
under the floor in my own cabin a large iron chest full of several thousand
gold-coloured tokens that in size and appearance resembled English pounds
whereas their true value was at most two pence apiece. With these gold tokens,
I would fulfil my plan to do as the Norwegian skipper had done, my blond
adventuress’ special man, sail to the most far-flung islands I could find on
the map and buy as much trepang and pearls as my ship could carry. At that the
time, the South Pacific Islands were not as tightly populated with white men
like today. The large merchant companies in Sydney and Auckland hadn’t yet
established their many trading stations and it wasn’t so difficult to find
hundreds of islands where the white man, his habits and guiles, his coinage and
his sea routes were barely even heard of. True, there lived here and there lone
white men but they were for the most part outlaws and runaway sailors who often
had become nearly kanaka-ised and were susceptible to wicked tricks. It was a
savage and romantic life they lived and if any adventurous fellow like me for
example happened upon an island where such white men lived, they were nearly
always willing to help him in his enterprise for a little compensation no
matter how dear or cheap or original or wild it appeared to be. The first of
the islands I chanced upon with a visit was Apamama in the Gilberts or as they
are also called the Kingsmill Group. If memory serves me correct, the arch-saint
John Williams was down there and powdering the natives with his words of
wisdom. And now I got to reap what the saint had sowed. We appeared as
celestial saints and I was forced to give a sermon – you should have heard it!
None of the natives understood a word of what I said. And just as well! Even
though what I preached was more likely to please the Devil than Our Lord, the
unctuous tone had the desired effect. I got what I wanted. There was a big
supply of trepang set aside for a Chinese vessel that usually came by once a
year. And one of the chiefs had a whole straw basket full of the most beautiful
pearls. I didn’t hesitate before taking ownership of both these for a handful
of my gold tokens. When I sailed away from Apamama, I rubbed my hands together
with glee. I thought that it had been a glorious event that I had been robbed
in Sydney and later on got to be reimbursed by and acquainted with the blond
adventuress. Without that adventure, I would never have found this excellent
way to make a splendid fortune with the least possible difficulty and no real
capital.
I had the same
luck I had on Apamama on Aranuka, Maraki, Tarawa and Maivana – all low islands
in the Gilbert Group. Overall the missionaries had prepared the ground well for
me. The natives had a smattering of understanding about the value of gold and
the Chinese usually came annually to trade for what they made and trepang and
pearls. These Chinese merchants had been sailing all around the South Pacific
Islands for hundreds of years before the white man even knew they existed. They
were certainly there long before the famous Venetian traveller Marco Polo. It
is said that the first Dutch sailors had Chinese trepang buyers to thank for
the information that led to New Holland’s or as it is now called Australia’s
discovery.
When my cargo
hold was so full it threatened to burst, I set course for China’s moving coast.
The journey went quickly and with good luck and once there, there was no skill
involved in flogging off the cargo. Chinese gourmets prize trepang or bêche de mer higher than any other food,
higher than fried birds’ nests, sweetened shark fin and all their other
delicacies. And as the preparation and transporting of trepang are extremely
difficult, they quickly pay whatever price is asked for the much in demand
item.
Altogether I did
four journeys to and from China. At all the islands I visited in the northern
section of the Pacific Ocean, it only happened once that the natives refused to
take my gold tokens for payment. That was on Rongelap in the Marshall Group
where a German sailor had manipulated his way to becoming chief. He immediately
understood what was going on and incited the whole tribe against us. We only
just managed to get back on board, sail out of the lagoon and to sea as the
natives started showering us with their poisoned arrows. Yes, it was an
adventure that nearly finished disastrously – confound the Germans!
After the fourth
journey to China, I thought I had achieved my goal brilliantly and had amassed
capital. I had sold trepang and pearls for nearly 30,000 pounds sterling and
still had some pearls left over to make the jet black Australian bushmen go
snow white in the face with envy. As for the feelings of the natives when they
found out what my tokens were really worth, I didn’t lose any sleep over it.
They had everything they needed. Nature was so immensely generous to them and
good for them, it would truly be a shame to assist them to become accustomed to
things other than what nature donated. The white man’s inventions and ideas are
neither useful nor suitable for the natives. If my tokens did nothing else,
then perhaps they taught the natives a lesson to beware of other white
“civilisation bearers” who come out to their peaceful islands wanting to do
likewise.
Yes, my dear
Molineux, now you have heard how your soon-to-be father-in-law, Nicholls
Eastbourne, former down-and-out and unlucky cove, became rich. You have
yourself seen his large collection of different types of pearls and his vessel,
The Golden Chip. You sit now on his
comfortable verandah and enjoy his fine whisky and cigars. You stand knowing
that in a few days time you will marry one of his well brought up and beautiful
daughters. You are fortunate and young and your whole life lies easy before
you. In a word, you are a lucky man.
Yet still
Nicholls Eastbourne would not change things for all the gold in the world. He
has lived his rich life and seen it in all its different variations. He has
worked like a dog and enjoyed good days. He has duped and paid twice with the
same coins. He has experienced friendship with a few and sought to avenge
himself as best he could. With all his breath, he has found life down here on
the islands to be well worth living. But now, the South Pacific’s great wild
romance is coming to an end. Civilisation is beginning to take hold and thread
its way around the emerald green islands. If, in a few decades time, the
kanakas’ friendly, happy, easy-going character, their beautiful customs and
habits, their innocence and hospitality become a mere memory, the trivial and
conventional and boring formalities of the white mans’ lands – of London, Paris
and Berlin – will take hold in the Polynesian islands. You can therefore
understand that someone like me who for the past half decade has tasted freedom
and the right to live and do as one wants, would not wish to change anything
for members of the generation to come, of which you with your twenty odd years
behind you and your calm growth are a representative …
And that was the
complete story of how Nicholls Eastbourne became rich.
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